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(Thanks to 張嘉琪 for writing this article about us!)
好穿的高跟鞋,也可以很美麗
近來台灣服裝設計師在國際表現耀眼,從吳季剛到古又文,
最近有兩位來自台彎的新銳設計師嶄露頭角,女鞋品牌He
台中鞋技中心 從頭拜師學藝
品牌取名為Heavy Machine(重機器),設計樣式也真的很 “工業”,顛覆傅統女生高根鞋柔美的印象,HM鞋跟的厚
然而,起初她們拿設計草稿給製鞋師傅時,老師傅也傻眼,
勇赴國外參展 品牌知名度大開
學成之後,2008年兩人籌了30萬台幣,整式展開創業
聽了朋友的建議,兩人決定先到國外參展打響品牌。剛好網
“這場展覽讓我們直接面對買家,買家提出很多我們之前沒
對自己的作品有強烈信仰
HM原本設定每雙6, 7千元,但因為數量不多且全手工製作成本壓不下來,因此
目前HM 仍積極參加國外展覽打響品牌。作為台灣少見的女鞋設計師
High Heels Can Be Comfortable AND Beautiful!
Taiwan has consistently shined in terms of their innovations in fashion and design. From Jason Wu to Johan Ku, Taiwanese designers have been able to demonstrate their creative abilities to the international fashion community.
Recently, two new designers who hail from Taiwan have been catching public attention with their brand, Heavy Machine, a line of footwear that even caught the eye of Teen Vogue’s chief editor at a recent New York City New Designer Exhibition. It was the work of two 27 year old designers-Yoyo Pan (who studied at the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology) and Michelle Wu (who hails from New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology) who met each other while both were in Taiwan. Coming from similar backgrounds in fashion design, the two became fast friends. They both sought a high heel that was also comfortable but their search did not bear fruit. They also felt that the high heel market was full of the same designs and was missing something. That’s when they had an idea-they would create the high heel they wanted themselves, and they took off “running” with it.
Starting from Scratch at the Research Institute
They named their brand “Heavy Machine” and indeed their designs appear very industrial and have solid structures like a machine. Yet when you put them on they feel lightweight, and they come in all sort of sugar-coated candy colors, that truly make them a unique design. “Comfortable high heels don’t have to be ugly; Beautiful high heels don’t have to be uncomfortable , Heavy Machine is redefining the concept of high-heels.
However, when Michelle and Yoyo first presented their sketches to a veteran shoe designer, his eyes grew wide. The two women had ideas but as they had studied apparel design, they did not understand the technical aspects of making shoes: thus, their ideas could not be used. They decided to learn the craft from scratch- Yoyo especially traveled to Taichung’s Footwear and Recreation Technology Research Institute and for a whole year studied the basics such as material selection, shoe production, etc. “[Designing] shoes and clothing is different. Clothes don’t harm the human body, but with shoe design you have to consider consequences-if one little detail is wrong, you could potentially injure your customers. If a client trips and falls while wearing your shoes, they could sue you!” explains Yoyo.
Bravely Setting Foot at an Exhibition Creates Mass Popularity
After setting their foundation, in 2008 the two took 300,000 NT and began their business. However, though Michelle and Yoyo knew how unique their design was, the Taiwanese shoe market was simply too small to promote their high fashion brand. It just so happens that the pair knew friends that owned shoe boutiques in New York and they asked them, “How do shoe stores select the brands they want to sell?” Their friends explained that shoe boutiques often held exhibitions and selected potential brands from there. Because exhibitions select units based on design and financial factors, sellers could have confidence in selling that product.
After listening to their friends’ advice, Michelle and Yoyo decided to find exhibitions outside of Taiwan to showcase their products. Luckily, there were online ads that asked for vendor information for an American trade show. The two women were about to take a leap of faith into the American footwear market! At the exhibition, passer-bys would exclaim “Wow!” and remark “your shoes look like they cost $800!” while students would ask if Heavy Machine was offering internships. It was not until the Chief Editor of Teen Vogue offered his business card did the pair realize that even big companies in the industry visited shoe exhibitions.
“At the exhibition we were able to directly meet buyers, and the buyers brought up a lot of important points and questions we hadn’t considered before, this gave us a lot of opportunity for self-reflection and improvement.” The exhibition also boosted their popularity, and several buyers indeed knocked on their door. Now Heavy Machine is sold in stores in Taipei and Hsingchu in Taiwan, New York, and the Netherlands. Because New York and Netherlands were hot spots for fashion, they were able to appeal to customers more accustomed to the high-fashion look of Heavy Machine shoes.
Strong Faith in Their Own Product
The price for a pair of Heavy Machine shoes was originally supposed to be capped at around $200, but because of production costs and the high quality materials used, they had no choice but to raise prices to over $300 in order to ensure profit. This of course turned away the younger consumers such as teenagers who could not afford them, but on the flip side enticed older, self-sufficient working women. Additionally, stylists began to purchase Heavy Machine shoes to accessorize their celebrity clients, notably Taiwanese host Pauline Lan, singer Penny Tai, actress Sandrine Pinna, and many others. As a result, Heavy Machine manages to sell a couple hundred pairs each month.
Currently Heavy Machine is still actively participating in international exhibitions in order to attract more potential buyers. Both women believe in order to survive in the footwear industry basic knowledge of shoe design is needed, along with thick-skinned determination and passion. When the two had first presented their drawings to the veteran shoe designer, he asked them, “Were these drawn by kindergarten students?”and similarly, customers at exhibitions would sometimes wonder, “Why are your shoes so strange looking?” However, Michelle and Yoyo are not worried. To them, the designer must like their own product in order for others to appreciate it as well; oftentimes, people are turned away by something because it is unfamiliar and not because they don’t like it. They cite Lady Gaga as an example of how innovation and wackiness can earn worldwide popularity. They joke, “If you look at our shoes from Lady Gaga’s perspective, maybe they are not weird enough!”


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